What is the INCI list?
The INCI list stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a regulatory nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients. All ingredients present in the formula must be listed in descending order of concentration, from the most to the least present.
The list of active ingredients highlighted for their benefits should not be confused with this INCI list, the complete list of ingredients used (active ingredients, preservatives and other additives).
Therefore, it's the INCI list that you should look for on the packaging of your cosmetics or on the e-commerce site for your online purchases. Generally, it is preceded by the words "Ingredients:" on the packaging.
To help you decipher this list, we have grouped together below the main families of ingredients contested for their toxicity.
What is an endocrine disruptor?
Endocrine disruptors operate in a way that has never been seen before. Hormones affect the hormone system at extremely low doses, meaning there is no threshold dose for these toxic substances. Furthermore, we are exposed to a multitude of substances (food, cosmetics, packaging, paints, etc.) that together can produce a harmful "cocktail effect." These interactions between different substances and the very long time it takes for signs of toxicity to appear make it even more difficult to develop evidence and implement regulations for endocrine disruptors. Adding to these difficulties is the weight of the chemical industry lobby.
Another peculiarity of these substances is that they are particularly toxic to growing organisms. Therefore, they should be avoided as a priority in pregnant women, children and adolescents.
Parabens
Among the endocrine disruptors are parabens (short for parahydroxybenzoate). Antimicrobial preservatives, present in 99% of cosmetics in 2012, they are quickly absorbed by the skin. These substances are also allergens. They are found in the INCI list under the names methylparaben, sodium methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, isopropylparaben, butylparaben, phenylparaben and other suffixes ending in –paraben. Since the media scandal surrounding parabens, manufacturers often boast of the "paraben-free" label. However, be careful to check which ingredients they have been replaced with (phenoxyethanol, methylthiazolinone, toluene).
Perfumes
Synthetic fragrances are also endocrine disruptors. Cosmetic packaging only lists the word "fragrance" and not the detailed composition, which is protected by "trade secrets." These synthetic fragrances have hormonal effects on estrogen activity and disrupt thyroid function. They are also bioaccumulative and toxic to the environment.
Check the ingredients list on your packaging and avoid products containing the word fragrance when it is not specified as *natural origin.
Triclosan
Triclosan, which is widely used in toothpaste, is a toxic preservative that affects thyroid function (an endocrine disruptor) and forms carcinogenic residues. It is also bioaccumulative, meaning the body cannot eliminate it. It is listed under the name triclosan on the INCI list.
Sunscreens
Sunscreens protect your skin from the sun and UV rays. They can be chemical, which act by absorbing UV rays, or physical, which repel them. Chemical filters are endocrine disruptors. They are also present in many cosmetic products that are not intended to protect from the sun. They are recognized in the INCI list by the suffixes –cinnamate, -benzophenone, -resorcinol, -octocrylene, -benzylidine camphor.
Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing substances are irritants, allergens, and carcinogens. As a preservative, they cannot exceed a concentration of 0.2% in formulas, but they can reach up to 5% in nail polishes. They are known as formaldehyde, formalin, formalin, formic aldehyde, paraform, methanal, methyl aldehyde, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, oxomethane, dmdm hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, bronopol, and diazolidinyl urea.
Silicones
Their function is to form a film on the surface of the skin or hair. They are conditioners, lubricants, emulsifiers, and sometimes also anti-foaming agents. They can impair fertility and contain toxic residues. They are recognizable by their ending in –one or –ane, such as dimethicone.
Mineral oils
Mineral oils, used as pseudo-moisturizers, form an occlusive film that prevents natural evaporation called perspiration. They promote the appearance of comedones and alter the natural hydrolipidic film. They can be contaminated with heavy metals as well as carcinogenic hydrocarbon molecules. They are known as mineral oil, cera microcristallina, synthetic wax, paraffin, petrolatum, ceresin, ozokerite, vaseline, isohexadecane, and polyisobutene.
Therefore, prefer products containing vegetable oils, which are richer and better assimilated by the skin.
Acrylates
Acrylates are thickeners, bulking agents, and film-forming agents. They are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes and can cause allergies. They may be carcinogenic, neurotoxic, toxic to reproduction, and contaminate the environment. Their names contain the word "acrylate," such as acrylate copolymer or acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
Nitrosamine
Some preservative surfactants found in many hygiene and care products are likely to release nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic and highly toxic to bacteria and mammals.
DEA, TEA, bronopol, triethanolamine, lecithin cocamidopropyl betaine, stearalkonium hectorite, aminomethyl propanol, sodium pca, cocamide mea, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, Hydrogenated lecithin, cocamide dea.
These ingredients should therefore be monitored on the INCI list.
Ethylene oxide and glycol ethers
Ethylene oxide is carcinogenic and contributes to the formation of glycol ethers. These preservatives, often used to replace parabens, are irritants, allergens, carcinogens, and endocrine disruptors. They are known as phenoxyethanol, polyethylene glycol (easily recognizable by the prefix -PEG), polypropylene glycol (prefix -PPG), macrogol, and poloxamer.
Anionic detergents
Very good detergents and known for their high foaming power, they are contained in many hygiene products. Anionic detergents are irritating to the skin and eyes, and can be contaminated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide residues. They are recognized by the presence of the suffix ETH, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium, laureth sulfate, sodium coceth sulfate, sodium oleth sulfate, but also nonylphenol and the ingredients -oxynol and hydroxyethyl-.
Tip: If you see Latin names in the ingredient list, these are plant names. So, if you only have English names in the first ingredients of the INCI list, there's a good chance that the base of your product is of synthetic origin (silicone, mineral oils).
Alaena, organic cosmetics certified by Ecocert Cosmos Organic
At Alaena, respecting your health and the environment is part of our DNA because it's essential to our health and that of our children. This involves monitoring every stage of the product development process, from sourcing raw materials, through manufacturing with waste control, to the finished product and its packaging.
Only an external certification body can guarantee this and protect against greenwashing. This is why we have chosen the European Ecocert Cosmos Organic label to certify our products.
To go further and as a precautionary principle, we are staying ahead of cosmetic regulations. Our product formulas are among the most skin- and environmentally friendly on the market and exclude all of the ingredients cited above, which are contested for their toxicity.