What is the microbiota?
The human microbiota is a community of microbes living on or in the human body.
It includes fungi (mycobiota), bacteria (microbiota), viruses, bacteriophages, archaea, and protozoa in addition to the human genome. It is called a superorganism.
The skin microbiota is home to a vast microbial community that varies depending on physiology, topography, and environment. Actinobacteria (52%) including Propionibacter, Firmicutes (24%) including Staphylococcus, Proteobacteria (17%) and Bacteroidetes (7%) are the 4 most abundant species identified on the skin. Colonization is influenced not only by body topography, but also by many host-specific factors such as sex, age, clothing, activity, hygiene, antibiotic use, temperature and humidity, UV exposure. The fungal microbiota in seborrheic areas is less diverse than the bacterial flora, dominated by the Malassezia type.
The link between the microbiota and the skin
We have suspected this since Hippocrates, but the development of recent studies has made it possible to prove the link between lifestyle and the intestinal microbiota, in particular the "Human microbiome project" research project in 2008 in the United States by the NIH (National Institutes of Health) with funding of 157 million dollars. Known factors such as diet (fiber, polyphenols, sugars, fatty acids), stress but also physical activity, drug use, alcohol consumption, tobacco can modify this microbiota. At the skin level, we are only at the beginning of research whose application is confronted with the health standards for marketing imposed on the cosmetics industry.
Primum non nocere / First do no harm
The skin microbiota is complex, and it's important not to create an imbalance. For example, harsh preservatives that are biocides disrupt the microbiota. Antibiotics, often used for acne, are also harmful in the long term and can lead to recurrences.
The link between the different microbiotas is known and in particular for the skin it is necessary to act at the intestinal level, also playing on the gut-brain axis.
What ritual should you follow to preserve your microbiota?
Gentle cleansing with a cold process soap like our Mango & Avocado Soap which balances pH and regulates the microbiota.
Avoid aggressive preservatives (phenoxyethanol) and emulsifying detergents such as PEG, polysorbate, pentylene or propylene glycol.
Mineral oils, silicones or acrylic derivatives known to disrupt skin flora.
We stay close to nature with natural and certified organic formulas. We understand that pesticides are there to destroy plant parasites, which are bacteria, but our microbiota is also made up of bacteria. Similarly, an antibiotic, as its etymology indicates, will disrupt our microbiota.
At Alaena, in this spirit of staying as close as possible to life, we have developed patented active ingredients based on sprouted seeds. The principle of germination, which is to release micronutrients for the development of the plant, is also valid for skin cells and its microbiota. We then provide prebiotics (sugars, fibers, amino acids, polyphenols, etc.) and probiotics naturally contained in these seeds. We can call them symbiotics.
We also use lactobacillus ferment in our Eye Contour which inhibits melanin production and reduces dark circles.
The case of specific pathologies:
Acne
We know that the germ Cutibacterium or formerly Propionibacter is a component of the normal microbiota, but in acne there are aggressive strains that will develop to the detriment of good bacteria. It is important to provide prebiotics that will help feed the good bacteria and probiotics, which are beneficial bacteria, to defend against aggressive strains and rebalance the microbiota.
Eczema
In the case of eczema, it is the same mechanism, this time with the staphylococcus aureus germ present at 80% on a patch of eczema compared to 40% on healthy skin.
Rosacea
In rosacea, there is a disruption of the gut-brain axis and the gut-skin axis and there is a proliferation of Demodex (a parasite that is part of the microbiota).
Good bacteria for healthy skin:
Prebiotics
A prebiotic is a plant fiber that the body does not digest, but which is useful for the growth or activity of certain bacterial populations contained in the (intestinal) flora. It differs from a probiotic, which is a bacteria with beneficial effects on the body.
Prebiotics are non-digestible compounds (sugars, fibers, amino acids, polyphenols, etc.) which, through their metabolism by intestinal microorganisms, modulate the composition and/or activity of the intestinal microbiota, thereby conferring a physiological benefit to the host.
Examples: Inulin is extracted from chicory root. It is a carbohydrate whose prebiotic effects help stimulate the growth of bacteria in the microbiota. It also helps relieve symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome. Fructo-oligosaccharides, also called bifidofibers, are also considered prebiotics. In addition to feeding the bacteria in the intestinal flora, they participate in the secretion of propionates, responsible for the satiety message sent to the brain, and butyrates, which contribute to the proper protection of the colon wall.
Probiotics
The word "probiotic" comes from the Greek words "pro" meaning "in favor" and "biotikos" meaning "life." In 2001, probiotics were defined by the World Health Organization as " live , non-pathogenic microorganisms which, when ingested in sufficient quantities, exert positive effects on the microbiota and on health, beyond traditional nutritional effects."
Note that in the current state of cosmetic regulations, it is necessary to control the biological proliferation of the probiotic (it is measured in CFU: colony forming unit).
Symbiotics combine pre- and probiotics.
Article written by Dr. Sylvie Peres, dermatologist and co-founder of Alaena